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  1. #1
    Senior Member chuckbuster's Avatar
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    Doubling in M1 Garand

    So, I was out at the range today with a good friend and observed something I had read about, think I have seen discussed here, but never actually seen before: a Garand doubling when firing.

    The long and the short of it is that my Garand doubled while my friend was shooting it. I went online to check out causes, although my suspicion was that he had the luck or misfortune (depending upon your point of view) to have dropped the hammer on a round with a slightly raised primer. It seems that the Garand equivalent of limp wristing can cause a double to occur, but, since I doubt that was the case, I'm convinced that a slightly raised primer on one of my reloads was the cause. I inserted another clip immediately after and fired it off without incident, so I don't think the rifle was to blame. For what it's worth, it was pretty cool to be there when it happened...So F U Wendy and all the rest of you sundry assorted gun control halfwits; I had fun.
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    Rory McCanuck (04-15-2017)

  3. #2
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    On a Garand or M14 it is easy to drop the trigger group and get a look at the hammer hooks while you release the trigger.
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  4. #3
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    It's highly unlikely to have anything to do with the ammo. Moreso if this happened only when your buddy was shooting.
    There are two causes of an M1 doubling(or tripling). Operator failure. Much more preferable and common for new shooters. Usually when shooting off a bench and usually with an M-14 style rifle more than an M1. "Equivalent of limp wristing" is a pretty good analogy.
    Anyway, your buddy didn't hold the rifle quite tight enough and failed to follow through on the shot and released the trigger before the rifle was finished recoiling and hit the trigger a second time. Fix is to just hold the trigger back until the rifle is finished doing its job.
    The other is a broken or worn sear or it stays open. Or the hammer spring housing is assembled incorrectly. Fix for the former is to replace the sear or hammer spring housing. For the latter, it's to disassemble and reassemble the trigger group correctly.
    "...cool to be there when..." Yep. Kinda scary when it's your rifle, but it's not particularly dangerous. Was running a CF range one time, long ago, when one of my senior guys(Cadets) had an FNC1A1 double then jam. Ask the guy why he had done that, pushed the safety back into it's place(it had wiggled out a tick) and carried on. Probably would have scared a year or two's growth off a less experienced kid.
    Try and take a trip to Las Vegas. There's a gun shop there where you can pay as you play with a bunch of assorted SMG's, assault rifles and MG's. Isn't cheap, but nothing that is seriously fun is cheap. Starts at $159.99US. And they'll come get you at your hotel in a Hummer. https://www.battlefieldvegas.com/

  5. #4
    Senior Member chuckbuster's Avatar
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    Interesting input. Thanks. It's been a while since I've had the rifle completely apart. But since the condition in which I bought it indicates that the several hundred rounds I have put through it is more than the Dane to whom it may once have been issued ever did, I'm thinking it's not parts wear, nor incorrectly assembled parts. I would think it should double regularly if that was the case. But, I'll have to take a look and make sure. I'll also check with my friend and see if he can shed some more light on it from his end.
    Last edited by chuckbuster; 04-16-2017 at 02:11 PM.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member VooDoo's Avatar
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    If you haven't tested the trigger release, good to do it now.

    From this website under trigger assembly safety test : http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-inspection

    1. Remove the trigger assembly from the rifle. Close and lock the trigger guard.

    2. With the hammer dropped, pull back firmly on the trigger and don't release it. Manually cock the hammer back until it engages with the sear. Let go of the hammer (The hammer must not fall). If the hammer does not fall,
    grab it firmly and pull on it on it. (The hammer must not fall)

    3. If you pass the first test, very slowly release the trigger while watching how the sear transfers from one set of hammer hooks to the next. (The hammer must not fall). If the hammer does not fall release trigger completely.

    4. Pull the trigger and the hammer should fall.

    5. Cock the hammer again. Engage the safety. Pull the trigger firmly. (The hammer must not fall).

    If you pass all that, your friend has experienced a "bump" fire. When firing the M1 pull the trigger all the way back, nursing it to fire like a bolt action could result in this behavior. Happened to my kids when they tried it the first time.
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    Moderator kennymo's Avatar
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    If you pass all that, your friend has experienced a "bump" fire. When firing the M1 pull the trigger all the way back, nursing it to fire like a bolt action could result in this behavior. Happened to my kids when they tried it the first time.
    I did this once on my 'accurate' SKS, trying the long, slow squeeze on an offhand shot and didn't have quite enough pressure on the trigger. Pewpew......no kittens died though.....
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  9. #7
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    "...it's not parts wear, nor incorrectly assembled parts..." Sounds like it. Your buddy might still have the big, stupid, grin on his face though. M1's will do that. snicker.
    Your rifle have a 'VAR' barrel? Be stamped on it. If so, you have a near match grade barrel. A very decidedly good thing. 168 grain match bullets(Sierra or Hornady) and IMR4064.
    Oh and if you haven't already, the manuals are here. Free download, in .pdf format and you'll need the provided UN & PW.
    http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/

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    The only time I ever had this happen on my M14 was when using Fed 210M primers.

  11. #9
    Senior Member chuckbuster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justice View Post
    "...it's not parts wear, nor incorrectly assembled parts..." Sounds like it. Your buddy might still have the big, stupid, grin on his face though. M1's will do that. snicker.
    Your rifle have a 'VAR' barrel? Be stamped on it. If so, you have a near match grade barrel. A very decidedly good thing. 168 grain match bullets(Sierra or Hornady) and IMR4064.
    Oh and if you haven't already, the manuals are here. Free download, in .pdf format and you'll need the provided UN & PW.
    http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
    I'm going to check the trigger group when I get a chance over the next few days (a very busy week or two ahead), but as I said, the gun looks to have seen very little use and even less shooting. I'll also have a look at any barrel stampings I can see. The load we were using was 168 SMKs and IMR 4064; a combination the rifle shoots very well. And for what it's worth, we are still chuckling over it.
    Last edited by chuckbuster; 04-18-2017 at 05:32 AM.
    Magua took the hatchet to colour with blood...It is still bright.

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    Bittereinder (04-18-2017)

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    The barrel stampings will be in the same place as the normal drawing number and date stamps. Should be visibly through the op handle space on the rear hand guard.

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