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  1. #21
    Member shootist1873's Avatar
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    Sticky is a subjective term. If the brass was fired in your rifle, you could probably just push a neck-sized loaded round into the chamber quite easily. But, it probably would not just drop in.

    A bolt action is designed with camming action to assist in extraction, by pulling the round a tiny distance out of the chamber on the upstroke of the bolt. This "primary" extraction effect also works in reverse to seat a round in the chamber on the bolt handle down stroke. So, neck-sized rounds won't cause any problem.

    A Winchester 1894 or Marlin 336 lever action has no primary extraction at all. The locking block drops and the lever has to pull the bolt straight back and the empty casing straight out. Likewise, when chambering a loaded round, the lever must fully seat it with a straight push in before the locking block is able to rise and lock. The system operates with very little mechanical advantage, and relies on loaded rounds having almost zero resistance to chambering, and the fired casing almost no resistance to extraction.

    The empty .30-30 casing will chamber and extract with no problem, since it is now an exact fit in the chamber. But, after you neck size it and seat a bullet, and crimp that bullet (It is a lever action), the round may offer a small amount of resistance to chambering.

    Not a problem for a bolt action or a single shot, but it might be just enough to require heavier pressure for either of these lever actions to fully close the action. Alternately, it might work okay a few times before full-length sizing is required, or it might not work at all.

    To be honest, I have no experience trying neck-sized .30-30 rounds in either gun, so I don't know for certain. You would probably just have to try it and find out.

  2. #22
    Senior Member linung's Avatar
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    So what is the best option for reloading 30-30 for a lever action rifle(Winchester model 94)?
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  3. #23
    Super Moderator Rory McCanuck's Avatar
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    the best option for reloading 30-30
    Lee Classic Cast press.
    Lee Perfect Powder Measure.
    A beam scale, other than the Lee, they're all really good and quite accurate.
    Something for priming, either the on-press Safety Prime, or a hand primer of some sort.
    Something for eventually trimming cases, the Lee cutter gauge and shellholder are inexpensive and effective.
    A manual or eight, dies, a set of calipers (the mechanical ones from Princess Auto go on sale for $30, and don't eat batteries).

    Just suggestions. Just about any press will work very well for your need.
    Just about any powder measure will work.
    Reloading tools basically just don't wear out, so used will work as well as new.
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  4. #24
    Part-Timer Grizz Axxemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rory McCanuck View Post
    Lee Classic Cast press.
    Lee Perfect Powder Measure.
    A beam scale, other than the Lee, they're all really good and quite accurate.
    Something for priming, either the on-press Safety Prime, or a hand primer of some sort.
    Something for eventually trimming cases, the Lee cutter gauge and shellholder are inexpensive and effective.
    A manual or eight, dies, a set of calipers (the mechanical ones from Princess Auto go on sale for $30, and don't eat batteries).

    Just suggestions. Just about any press will work very well for your need.
    Just about any powder measure will work.
    Reloading tools basically just don't wear out, so used will work as well as new.
    Instead of the Classic Cast I'll toss in a good word for the Lee Hand Press. I've done tens of thousands of rounds on mine (from pistol ammo to FL sized bottleneck rifle brass) and it hasn't let me down yet. It won't handle the big magnums, but it's light and portable. It's also great if you have limited space.

    I stay the hell away from beam scales because of my experience with Lee. I have a Hornady L&L Autocharge dispenser that replaced the small digital scale that replaced my Lee. I do plan to pick up another digital (probably one of the Frankford or MTM scales when they go on sale) but since I'm not doing much reloading right now, it's low on the to do list.

    Get a deluxe set of Lee dies to start off with. They'll run you about the same for their fully loaded 4 die set as a 2-die set from the Green Machine
    General purpose troublemaker with a few gems of knowledge from time to time. Yep. I'm the same in real life too.
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  5. #25
    Senior Member linung's Avatar
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    thanks for the shopping list.

    Now I just need to find room for it all
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  6. #26
    Member shootist1873's Avatar
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    Beam scales are great, except for the current Lee.
    Lyman or RCBS.
    Be warned, however. Treat them like the delicate laboratory instruments that they are. Check weights are a wise investment.
    Use them and then remove them from the bench, and protect the pivot bearings from vibration and shock.
    Place a slip of soft thin leather between the bearings and the beam and find a dedicated shelf to place the scale on.
    Or, store it disassembled in the Styrofoam box that it came in.

    The electronic scales are either small and cheap, or large and expensive. The cheapies have wandering zero problems reputedly.

    But, you can't use your powder measure without a scale.

    If you don't want to buy the more expensive loading dies, then go with the Lee Dies.
    Having used both RCBS and Lyman dies, bought new, but of older manufacture, I bought my first Lee dies recently. A 3 die carbide set for revolver.

    They are a little different, and substitute aluminum in non-stress areas like the bullet seater stem and the retainer/funnel in the mouth belling die. They use aluminum locking rings and use rubber O-rings rather than locking screws. Cost-cutting measures. But, the quality of machining and manufacture seems very good, and they work quite well.
    Last edited by shootist1873; Yesterday at 08:43 PM.

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