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  1. #1
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    May 2015
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    M1 Garand trigger pin length

    So, I've got a couple Italian M1 Garand receivers to build up. I just received the Garand Guy parts kit from Aztech. Mostly seems to be pretty good, as far I can tell. But a couple issues have cropped up.

    1: The trigger assembly seemed to be completely jammed. I finally managed to get it apart. I think the problem is the trigger pin. It seems too short. When fully installed, the small end barely catches on the edge of the hole on the other side. It drops out of the hole very easily, and all the parts, under considerable spring tension, go sideways. What is the proper length for the trigger pin?

    2: The operating rod doesn't seem to fit into the groove machined for it on the receiver. There's a little notch in the receiver's groove where it looks like a tab on the operating rod should drop in. But when I do, the operating rod will not move far at all without jamming.

  2. #2
    Senior Member FALover's Avatar
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    HEY! Welcome to the world of Garand glitches. First things first, was the trigger already buggered when you started to take it apart? The biggest problem here is trying to disassemble the group while the hammer is cocked. All sorts of bad thing happen there. (trigger should be pulled, hammer up.) As everything is held together with the tension of the hammer spring, the pin should not move unless it is quite worn. The pin should be .653 " long and just a push fit (although a hammer is needed to get it the final bit in)(after all the other parts are in place.001.jpg

    It just goes to the bottom of the chamfer on the left side.

    004.jpg

    Replace the pin is my suggestion.

    Of the 60+ Italian receivers I have worked with, only once did I have problems with a oprod not fitting. It was a low serial numbered unit that would not take a correct spec oprod. The oprod fit in all my other receivers so it was not the culprit.(other oprods would bind as well) Does this problem happen with both receivers? (or just one). The issue was the track in the receiver and that is not to be messed with. I took a fine file and gently worked at removing a slight bit of the oprod tab to get it to slide the whole length. (use a heavy grease when you lube it). The white paint shows the side that needed to be fitted. Go easy and check often.

    oprod 001.jpg

    p.s. check your notifications for a p.m.
    Last edited by FALover; 09-11-2018 at 10:41 PM.
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  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    44
    Thanks for the awesomely detailed response.

    Eventually I discovered that the pin is actually the correct length. It just wasn't going in all the way. When I received it, the larger end of the pin was sitting proud of the housing, and jammed there (because the trigger was cocked when I got it, so everything was jammed). After I got it finally got it apart, the pin still didn't go all the way in. Even with no spring installed. It stopped with the head sticking out of the housing wall, so I thought it was supposed to be like that, and the pin was just too short.

    Only later did I realize that it's supposed to end up flush when it's inserted properly. Somehow the smaller hole on the other side of the housing seems to have been burred or peened or something so the pin doesn't fit. I sanded down the tip of the pin a bit, and gently filed the hole with a needle file. When the pin was able to go in without too much effort I reassembled the trigger group (what a nightmare that is... low marks, Mr. Garand). Seems to work now.

    I'm not entirely confident about the disconnector and sear geometry, though. When the disconnector lets the hammer go, it only barely catches on the sear. And the sear seems to have negative engagement. As the trigger is slowly pulled, the hammer creeps forward. I don't feel super confident about the safety of this trigger assembly.

    ------

    As for the op rod/receiver fit, I tried it on my other receiver (a Beretta), and it doesn't fit there either. Examining the op rod closely, I suspect the tab on this one has been welded up. Apparently it's common for the tabs to wear down, and then the op rod starts jumping out of its track. There are companies that will add a bit more weld metal onto the tab to bring it back into spec. One surface on my tab seems to not be filed flat, has excess filler metal still there. When I have time, I'll get out some calipers and compare it to the specifications.

    I knew building a Garand was going to be a lot more challenging than building an AR. So far, I have not been disappointed in that respect.

  4. #4
    Senior Member VooDoo's Avatar
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