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  1. #11
    Go Canucks Go! lone-wolf's Avatar
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    I personally would never use a steel brush on a firearm.
    the wild still lingered in him and the wolf in him merely slept

    Liberty is not a thing for the great masses of men. It is the exclusive possession of a small and disreputable minority, like knowledge, courage and honor. It takes a special sort of man to understand and enjoy liberty and he is usually an outlaw in democratic societies. - H.L. Mencken

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    Forbes/Hutton (10-13-2018)

  3. #12
    Moderator kennymo's Avatar
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    I honestly don’t clean my shotguns too often.... A good wipe down and coat of G96 or Ballistol if they’ve gotten damp. A few drops of oil on the moving bits every now and then. The bore only gets cleaned if it got really wet or there’s considerable filth. A dab of anti seize on the choke isn’t a bad idea if you’ve got it out either. (I had to get out the big wrench once) I only fully strip them when they come into my possession, though I suppose if I had a tragic mud hole accident I’d rip them apart too. I’ve had more problems with guns that had been lubed/oiled excessively over time (or a s##tload of factory grease) than I’ve had with ones that weren’t perfectly spotless every time they went in the cabinet.
    Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.

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    lone-wolf (10-11-2018)

  5. #13
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    Its a good idea to read the cleaning instructions that came with your rifle. ( I'm being a smart a**)
    Now for cleaning the bore. My shop was a custom shop and no where would you find a copper/bronze cleaning brush.
    The only brushes we had would be the nylon and stainless steel brushes. There is a very good reason for this. Certain solvents can and will give you a false reading on how clean your bore is when you use a copper based brush. You know that funny looking green stuff on your patches. The other thing is that even though you see the words stainless steel , the stainless that is used is VERY soft , just like a copper brush. And no, a stainless brush will never hurt your bore.

  6. #14
    Senior Member VooDoo's Avatar
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    For my 12/20G I got these Jags from Brownels. Great for regular cleaning, etc.

    https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...?sku=100003286

    University of Texas at Austin 2014 Commencement Address - Admiral William H. McRaven
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    smak (10-16-2018)

  8. #15
    Senior Member speedloader's Avatar
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    I have had good luck with g96 products Ill use the solvent but if really dirty Hoppes#9 ( love the smell) than just G96 for lube
    wipe down with a lubed rag and they stay frosty for next time, but as Ken said full tare down and bath when new or acquired
    and after that feild strip will usually do it, you can never have too many shotgun patches they work for everything especially
    chambers of rifles

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    10-64 (10-14-2018), smak (10-16-2018)

  10. #16
    Senior Member Gunexpert007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lone-wolf View Post
    I personally would never use a steel brush on a firearm.
    " Better To Fight For Something , Than Live For Nothing " ; " When In Doubt....ATTACK ".......Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

  11. #17
    Senior Member Grimlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VooDoo View Post
    For my 12/20G I got these Jags from Brownels. Great for regular cleaning, etc.

    https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...?sku=100003286

    Everyone buy these. They are great.

  12. #18
    Senior Member labradort's Avatar
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    When I started with cleaning and lube I had whatever they carried at Canadian Tire.

    I tried G96 after I heard of others here using it, and found it leaves behind a much thinner film than an oil such as Hoppes #9. So one drop of oil can go by the main movement of the firearm (bolt/slide/shotgun pump), but I use G96 generally for cleaning and protection.

    When I'm done I tend to have extra CLP on my hands and parts of the firearm I want to handle. I found a solution to that and I've been reusing this method. I have a new cloth and a can of spray wax FW1 some guy was selling in a parking lot. It is for cars, boats, etc. I put a small amount of it on a cloth and lightly touch different areas on the stock and pistol grip, etc. to distribute it around. Then I buff it until it is dry. The oils come up with the cloth and when my hands are clean and dry I can feel the handling parts of the firearm are dry and clean to handle. They key is to go light with the spray wax so there isn't too much going on to the firearm - just want it to clean up the excess CLP on the surface and leave the handling surfaces clean and dry. Since FW1 can be put on fibreglass and plastic trim, it is OK for a little to go on synthetic parts too. I'm sure this is a crazy suggestion for people owning high quality shotguns with beautiful wood, but it works well enough for me and my cheaper or mid-range firearms, some of which already had a gloss wood look.

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    smak (10-16-2018)

  14. #19
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    best solvent I know of is brake clean, you will need to lubricate, it has no residue

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