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View Full Version : M14 gas cylinder plug tightening ? (how tight is tight enough ?)



RobSmith
06-13-2012, 01:43 PM
What is the "proper" way of doing it ?

Seems that ideas regarding the matter are all over the map. Some say finger-tight is more than good enough, some say you want it as tight as you can without bending/warping the gas system. Others recommend the use of a torque wrench set to a specific value, some recommend using a gas cylinder wrench at all times whenever the plug needs to be removed, some don't.

Quite confusing, what's the REAL story here ?

jwirecom109
06-13-2012, 01:48 PM
I personally Hand tighten it then afterwards snug it up with a wrench (when i say snug i mean 1/4 turn past hand tight)

I do it this way because i don't have a torque wrench, but the Springfield Armory standard says 15lbs

50calshooter
06-13-2012, 10:38 PM
What jwire said.. ^^^

Satain
07-22-2012, 02:52 PM
I personally Hand tighten it then afterwards snug it up with a wrench (when i say snug i mean 1/4 turn past hand tight)

I do it this way because i don't have a torque wrench, but the Springfield Armory standard says 15lbs
Actually what I have been taught from the M14Doctor was that if I am out buring rounds then I want it a little loos but if I am doing much more slow and persice shooting then I want it nice and tight. Here is another good thing about the norks. There gas lock if you have it one way and it lines up properly but is a little loose then all you have to do is flip it around and most of the time it will seat dead tight. If you make it even looser than it is best to get some one with knowledge about this rifle system to take a look at it because it could be alot of things causing this issue.

SKULLBOY
07-31-2012, 09:32 PM
If your Gas lock is properly indexed, all you need is finger tight then just snug with a short wrench. I have seen toooo many people crank the gas plug on. it does NOT need to be cranked tight!!!!!! :D

I would personally tighten it the same all the time regardless of the style of shooting I am doing. Constistency is the key with this platform. ;)

Also when you have the gas plug out remember to check/clean the carbon build up inside the gas plug..........If your rifle starts to "Bark" or have a sharp report, then chances are the gas plug is built up with carbon. A carboned up gas plug is hard on the rifle...........

Hungry
07-31-2012, 11:09 PM
Snug or one hand tight. KISS! :D

Cheers,
Barney

RobSmith
08-01-2012, 11:26 AM
Thanks for the tip regarding the gas plug, I did notice that the rifle seemed unusually loud when I fired it (for the first time) last weekend. Being thoroughly unfamiliar with this kind of rifle, is there anything else that I should critically know about ? I do intend to attend one of Hungry's clinics if one is held within a reasonable distance of the Quebec/Ontario border.

SKULLBOY
08-01-2012, 04:55 PM
Thanks for the tip regarding the gas plug, I did notice that the rifle seemed unusually loud when I fired it (for the first time) last weekend. Being thoroughly unfamiliar with this kind of rifle, is there anything else that I should critically know about ? I do intend to attend one of Hungry's clinics if one is held within a reasonable distance of the Quebec/Ontario border.

One key tip is that there is nothing on these rifles that require oil............they are greased.........and the gas system is a dry system......should not be lubricated........

Here are some tips from Myself and Hungry.........


Lubricating the M14 Type Rifles.

The only two thing you want to lube with gun oil are the trigger assembly pivot points, and the firing pin.All other lubing should be done with a good quality grease.

You want to grease the following areas:
-Bolt roller
-bolt lugs
-The bolt tracks inside the reciever
-the underside of the bolt
-the nose of the hammer
-Operating Rod track
-Inside the Op Rod "hump"(where the bolt roller fits.HINT a small syringe filled with grease works great for lubing this area).
-Recoil spring guide rod
-Where the Op Rod slides through the op rod guide

Source for Grease Syringes:

Okay M14 , M1A and M1 Garand lovers:

I found the curved tip glue syringes that are perfect for applying GREASE to your :

Op rod raceways
Op rod guide
Bolt lugs
Bolt raceways
Hammer hooks
Hammer nose

Go to Lee Valley Tools (google it for yerself) and here is there product number:

Curved-Tip Syringe, ea.
25K07.05 in 2009, they were retailing for $ 2.60 plus taxes. I usually have them for $ 2.00 including the grease at my clinics.

Buy a few for yourself and fill them with whatever CHEAP grease works for your purposes (cold-snowmobile , high-tech- Plastilube, cheap- Ukrainian Tire Bearing Grease)

DO NOT use any lube/oil on the gas assembly!!!!This is a dry gas system.If you use any type of lube here, powder residue will cake up and plug the gas system.You can use a little bore cleaner to clean the gas system, but them make sure to thoroughly clean afterwards.The inside of the gas cylinder nut and the gas piston need to be cleaned out periodically, or carbon will build up inside them and, causing the rifle to "bark" and cycle harder if left long enough.You can use a 5/16 drill bit TURNED IN YOUR FINGERS to clean out the carbon build up from the inside of the gas piston and gas nut.DO NOT use any drills or the like to clean out the inside of the gas cylinder assembly!!!You do not want to scratch the interior walls of the gas cylinder.I would say the gas system should be cleaned every 400 to 500 rounds.

The gas nut does not have to be "cranked" on super tight.Just snug it down enough that it won't loosen up from the recoil.Check the gas nut for tightness every so often.

When cleaning the bore, clean the rifle upside down.This is a critical step if your action has been bedded.This way keeps cleaning solvents from seeping between the stock and reciever.The bore cleaner will eat away at the bedding material.

You must clean the bore from the muzzle end on these rifles.To keep the bolt from releasing, lock back the bolt and insert a steel stripper clip into the stripper clip guide so that i covers the bolt face.This will stop you from releasing the bolt inadvertently with your cleaning rod(this trick only works if you have the original stripper clip guide.Won't work if you have a 3rd generation scope mount).For a bore guide, take a spent 12 gauge shotshell, and cut of the crimped end.Then drill out the spent primer slightly larger then your cleaning rod.This will slip perfectly over the flash suppressor and protect the muzzle crown and inside of the flash suppressor form cleaning rod damage.

375rum
08-01-2012, 05:15 PM
I have always just run the gas plug tight and have had no problems.

Rocket Surgery
08-01-2012, 06:05 PM
I don't mean to throw a wrench into your theories (hyuk) but the smallest groups I have ever shot (1.5'ish) with my 2007 was done with a finger tight gas lock. Why it was finger tight is a long story that I don't want to get into right now (lost the wrench) but I'm really not convinced that it matters.

SKULLBOY
08-01-2012, 10:23 PM
I don't mean to throw a wrench into your theories (hyuk) but the smallest groups I have ever shot (1.5'ish) with my 2007 was done with a finger tight gas lock. Why it was finger tight is a long story that I don't want to get into right now (lost the wrench) but I'm really not convinced that it matters.

Finger tight gas lock or gas plug ??? Your gas lock should start to tighten up at 3 or 4 o'clock and be snug at 6 o'clock.........then the gas plug should be finger tight/snug...........

Rocket Surgery
08-02-2012, 12:11 AM
Finger tight as in I got to the range and it fell off so I put it back on with my fingers. I got home and the girl at the time cleaned up my room so the wrench didn't show up for a few days until I messed that shit up again