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View Full Version : Archery for a beginner, what to buy?



chuckufarlie
08-04-2020, 07:35 PM
Hey guys,

As a kid I used to toy around with a bow. I think I had a couple of lessons either in gym class or could have been at Scouts, can't really remember now. I then had a cheap recurve for a couple years that I played around with on the farm.

Anyway, I am now in the process of joining a range that has a good archery range attached. I already have a crossbow, so at least I will finally be able to practice with that a bit, but now I am thinking about trying my hand at archery again.

So, if I go down this route, what should I buy?

At first it would just be for targets. I do hunt sometimes though, so I might consider bow hunting in the future (turkey or grouse, not deer).

Recurve or compound?

What sort of weight of pull should a beginner get -- I don't need a lot of power as I don't intend to hunt large game with it.

And I will likely have to go to a decent bow shop to have it setup for me? What is a decent bow shop in Southern Ontario?

Thanks

Macds
08-04-2020, 07:44 PM
Id go with a recurve, and get something that you CAN hunt large game with.
Not only to have the option, but for resale if you decide its not for you.

Triggers and Bows, and The Bow shop @ shooters choice are both decent places.

lone-wolf
08-04-2020, 07:52 PM
With a (takedown at least) recurve you can get lighter limbs so you can train and get good form before stepping up the heavier hunting ones.

I need to hit up the local bow shop and get some arrows. Had mine for a couple years now and never got around to using it.

Grizz Axxemann
08-06-2020, 03:57 AM
Start with a recurve if you're shooting targets. Compounds are cool, but there's a lot going on (I learn something new about my bow every day, but I'm also learning to do a lot of the work on it myself, just so I don't have to drive an hour to the city and pay someone to do it.)

30ish pound draw should do you pretty good to start. I think you can get recurve limbs up to 60 or more, but I don't really pay attention to the "arcane" stuff. And for the love of god, use a glove or finger tab at minimum, lest you like having nerve damage.

Edward Teach
08-06-2020, 01:26 PM
Buy some more lessons first before you start buying gear.

Macds
08-06-2020, 02:25 PM
Great idea Mr Teach.
Try some different stuff out (take some lessons), and see what you like.

Justice
09-01-2020, 11:36 AM
Go to an archery shop(not a shop that sells bows like Crappy Tire) and get fitted. Do not buy any bow with a draw weight that is more than you can easily lift a box of that weight. Shooting a bow uses muscles not used for anything else. Arrows must be the right length for you as well.
Get some upper body exercise too.
Have a look here. https://www.peelarchery.ca/
Check the Hunting Regs about a bow for birds. No idea about turkeys. Grouse isn't likely but I don't know for sure. Grouse don't always sit and wait. They usually thunder out from under your feet in pairs with one going East and the other West at high speed and jinking like an AIM 9 was coming.

Big-Boss-Man
09-01-2020, 12:01 PM
Buy some more lessons first before you start buying gear.

this totally. I borrowed a bow and realized I prefer crossbow, I would've been screwed had I forked out $1000 + on a bow to find out it wasn't for me -for hunting at least- but then I spent more than that on my Crossbow setup to not take it out hunting lol

Brad
09-01-2020, 03:43 PM
I would suggest a used compound. Compound bow shooters tend to switch up gear often and used bows go pretty reasonable, especially when the new models come out. Most people catch on quickly and shoot more consistently with a compound than a recurve. Instinctive shooting is a whole other thing. Trying to get the basics of proper form, drawing and releasing consistently is a challenge no need to add another challenge until later. I shoot both instinctively and with a decked out compound. I prefer the instinctive shooting but it takes more time than I have for me to hunt big game.

2012Cvoguy
09-01-2020, 05:31 PM
As others have stated, get to a archery range with some instruction. I’m a compound kinda guy but want to stretch out the last yard, just don’t be obsessed with the FPS sticker. Once your fitted and have your draw length figured out get a bow with a forgiving valley, may I suggest an Elite bow. Mine is beautiful to shoot from a stand, I also bought a a PSE Full Throttle as I went after every last FPS, and while it is a very nice accurate and nasty fast rig it is miserable if your form isn’t perfect. The valley is so shallow, even rotating around in the stand at full draw requires all your attention, one slip in form and it wants to take your shoulder out of it’s socket......

Have fun and enjoy, it is a fantastic sport!

Justice
09-03-2020, 11:38 AM
"...forked out $1000 + on a bow..." That's another thing. Decide on a budget first. Friggin' archery kit can be really, really expensive. I thought the $350 I spent on my compound 30 plus years ago was a lot until I looked at current prices. Especially arrows.
I wouldn't think 'used' compound myself. You have no idea what the previous owner has done with it. For example, dry firing one can damage it.
"...Recurve or compound?..." It takes more upper body tone to shoot a recurve well vs a compound. However, a recurve is easier to draw than a long bow. The poundage matters too. Last time I looked, Ontario requires a minimum of 40 pounds for deer. 48 pounds for moose. Dunno about birds. Either way, if you can't lift a 48 pound box easily, you won't be able to shoot a bow of that weight without hurting yourself either.

Camo tung
09-03-2020, 12:00 PM
The people that complain about the per round cost of premium rifle ammo should talk to a bow hunter. Try losing a carbon arrow with a quality broadhead...much more at stake than $2.50 per round.

kennymo
09-03-2020, 03:27 PM
The people that complain about the per round cost of premium rifle ammo should talk to a bow hunter. Try losing a carbon arrow with a quality broadhead...much more at stake than $2.50 per round.

The neighbourhood range puts on a weekly 3-D shoot over the winter. He puts out some logs and tree limbs for the tougher shots, it’s good for arrow sales. I’ve lost a couple shooting over the log at a small target. Amazing how carbon fibre can just explode like that....

Brad
09-05-2020, 04:29 AM
The neighbourhood range puts on a weekly 3-D shoot over the winter. He puts out some logs and tree limbs for the tougher shots, it’s good for arrow sales. I’ve lost a couple shooting over the log at a small target. Amazing how carbon fibre can just explode like that....

Ain't that the truth. I like to rabbit hunt with a bow but there can't be any snow. An arrow can disappear under three snowflakes. When I use my recurve with blunts I don't break half the arrows.

Candychikita
09-05-2020, 10:56 AM
Like Teach said, see if you can get into a lesson. We had a range of bows to try with tips and tricks to each.

Compound has to be fitted to your arm length to make it comfortable for you, as if the cams turn over too late you get fatigue. With compound, each time you change the weight you have to set everything up again, so going target practice at 20# to hunting weight at 40#+ is a big deal (also a bit of a shock, so I dialed it up slowly to get to my desired poundage - practically gave myself a hernia cranking it up too fast). I did however very much like being able to change the weight to suit my needs. I would NOT buy a used compound unless it's been through a shop to look it over for safety but that's just me. I give my shops a lot of business bahahaha.

If you're wanting to have fun and bomb around on targets I picked up a Kassai bow (https://www.horsebows.com/bows.php) These puppies are fantastic and lightweight. Been having a blast with this doing horseback archery. It is what it is, no bells and whistles. I fell in love with the shape. Note on these you're shooting off the hand, so you'll need a glove on your bow hand.

I got a regular recurve that shoots left and right that I keep for company. No bells, no whistles. As long as you're anchoring your string properly and practice consistency you can get good. I found recurve boring after you get to know your bow. Recurve has a lot of guesswork in it and I suck at guesstimating distances, so me hunting with a recurve is out of the question. Compound I am able to draw and wait and aim like a gun with sights, and I set up my pegs to certain distances so I could practice gauging distance better.

With your string hand, consider that you will fatigue your fingers and can cause nerve damage like Grizz said. I shoot in specific archery gloves these days because of the horsebow, or my compound I use a trigger/loop set up so I'm pulling with my wrist not my little fingers.

Enjoy your hunt for your bow!

Justice
09-08-2020, 11:57 AM
An arrow(that must be the right length for you) can disappear in thin grass too. And Al arrows can jam the insert into the shaft hitting a 2 x 4. $15 a pop for Al the last time I looked.
"...unless it's been through a shop to look it over for safety..." That applies to fibreglas and other "stick" bows too. They can get twisted. Easier to tell though. Just draw the thing. If the string comes out of the groove the limb is twisted and the bow is toast.

gunnutt
01-13-2021, 12:08 AM
Buy a Diamond Archery Infinite Edge Pro bow... It is hunting ready with all bells and whistles, it won't break the bank at 399 cad.
Shoots arrows up to 305 fps
Weighs just 3-1/5 lb. without accessories
Adjustable draw length from 13 to 31-inches
Adjustable draw weight from 5 to 70 lb.
31-inch axle-to-axle length
In a nutshell: it will grow as you grow, has an 80% let-off, so you can hold it easy when cocked. I am waiting to get one, as soon as they come and people grab them like mad. :mad1: