Longbow question

[C3H8]

I was just asked to go visit family in Moncton next weekend. I also just learned Basspro is opening there on the 7th. Having neither been to Cabelas or Basspro before, can anyone recommend a decent bow for me? I was mostly wondering if you can get a bow with different limbs for different draw weights. From what I've read everyone recommends starting with a 25-30lb draw weight. I'd like the option to hunt with it as well. I don't want to have to buy another bow. Any input or recommendations for a bow from either locations would be appreciated.

[Gaidheal]

It would be really really hard to learn proper technique and aiming with a heavy bow. I started with 40# and it would be at the upper end of reasonable to learn with.

Cabelas has an archery shooting range - basspro likely will too.

There are lots of decent bows - but it's too vague a thing to answer for someone else. Way too many variables.

[C3H8]

Fair enough. It looks like They both carry Samick. It seems you can get them from the manufacturer just no mention of different limbs in store. What weight would you recommend?

[Gaidheal]

In all fairness I can't make a recommendation as I know nothing about you. I know from personal experience that I can pull a 40# bow for hours on end and still maintain a decent point of aim.

That wasn't possible at first as I over-bowed myself by about 10 pounds. My wife started with a 30 pounder and I could shoot that for days, not just hours.

If you want to learn proper form and be able to aim properly you are going to have to throw a LOT of arrows. if you get tired after only a 100 pulls you will not be happy with your progress and it will be frustrating for you.

Try some out before you commit. I didn't have the opportunity but I'm stubborn enough to shoot until the point of exhaustion and get up the next day and try again.

[Forbes/Hutton]

Drawing and holding at full draw using muscles not used for much else, so even a strong person is best to start light and work up. 30# is a good start for an adult. There are only two bows where you can change the weight, one is the take-down recurves, the riser (center) is re-used but the limbs can be changed out for different draw weights. They are expensive for starters ($200+ plus for the basic bow, $100+ for an additional set of limbs. The other option is a compound bow. Most can be adjusted 15# or so and the main advantage of a compound is the mechanical let-off. Compounds are now getting to 65% and 75% let-off. This means at full draw you are holding 65 or 75 percent of the peak weight (so in the case of a compound with a peak weight of 65lbs with a 65% let-off you are only holding about 25lbs at full draw, but you still have to exert 65lbs of effort, normally half way or two-thirds of the way through the draw. This is easier as you have more momentum and leverage there than at full draw.
I would actually recommend that you start with cheap fiberglass bow at 30 or 35pounds, they cost about $40 and will get you started with the basic skills. While you could start with a compound adjustable from 50-65pounds, 50 is a bit heavy to start with and 65 is the bare minimum for hunting anything but small game. You would also need two sets of arrows to cover that weight range. The heavier the bow's draw, the stiffer the arrows need to be. The truth is, as far as accuracy is concerned, the arrows are all important and the bow is a distant second. The best (read most expensive) bow in the world won't be accurate without quality, consistently performing arrows. That $40 bow will shoot just as accurately as a $600 bow if it is used with quality arrows.

[Steveo9mm]

Ive been shooting bows since the 70's. And still every season i have to work my arm and shoulder for a week or 2 just to be able to effectivly use my 50lb. Ive heard good things about the sammick but ive never used one. But beware those cheaper takedown bows are prone to limb twist.

[ScottNT]

I have a sage, recurve 30#. it´s a starter bow....seems good. I can´t really complain other than after buying it I found it was made in China.

Biggest surprise was the cost of arrows, your gonna lose them. As far as hunting a 30# would be great for small game.

[C3H8]

But beware those cheaper takedown bows are prone to limb twist.

From what I've read its from people not stringing them properly. Have no experience myself with bow I have no idea if that is true.

I don't want to spend a lot in case I don't get much use out of it. It'll be a year before i consider hunting with a bow so I may try the 30# and look at a new set of limbs or bow next year.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

[Justice]

A bow with different limbs is usually a target bow. For hunting, you should look in your hunting regs first. Depending on what your hunting, there are usually minimums draw weight requirements. 30 pounds is likely too low for deer.
Anyway, you really need to get fitted for a bow and the arrows. Basspro might do that or they might just say "Buy this.", and you get something unsuitable for you. Don't know myself.
Your budget matters too. A long bow can run over $700. Relax, there are lots at a lot less but it has to fit you.
Anyway, do not buy any bow of a draw weight that is heavier than what you can easily lift a box of the same weight. As in, if you cannot lift a box weighing 40 pounds you will hurt yourself pulling a 40 pound bow.
"...65 is the bare minimum for hunting anything but small game..." Minimum for deer in Ontario is "...18 kilograms (39.7 lb.) at a draw length of 700 mm ( 27.6 in.) or less..." Used to be 45 for deer and 55 for moose. You really don't need a 65lb draw weight.

[Steveo9mm]

Limb twist is caused by limbs that are weaker on one side of the limb than the other. Strining it wrong is only a minor cause. They will twist weather you do it right or wrong. Temprature can even cause them to twist. Its like a guitar. Leave it in the wrong enviroment and next thing you know its a harp.