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  1. #21
    Senior Member Satain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katana View Post
    Very nice job on the videos and a good watch. I think I will try the same as you with a f-class shoot. Got to work up a load first.
    Coming from you I don't know how to read this!?!
    LoL!!!
    300 Win Mag any one?

  2. #22
    Senior Member Strewth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katana View Post
    Very nice job on the videos and a good watch.
    Wow, this^. Very nicely done videos, thanks for posting them!
    CSSA CCFR

  3. #23
    Canadian ForcesMember Grizz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    A few questions:
    1. Have you found a bullet/powder combo to get you in the .2 inch 3 shot group at a 100?
    No, I am as of right now I am only shooting factory loads. That being said, I have never measured my groupings but I would hazard a guess and say I am in the 1/2 inch range with a 5 shot group.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    2. Do you reload?
    Yes although I have only done handgun loads so far and I have a Dillon 550 progressive press

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    3. Describe shooting set-up, rest, bags, bipod.
    Again, I am literally just starting however, I feel comfortable at any one of those three positions. At the indoor range, I primarily use bags as that is what is on hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    4. Prone or bench?
    Would like to eventually become proficient at both.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    After finding the best bullet powder recipe I cronograph my rounds to find what speed they are going. Then I punch that info into a ballistic program and get my elevation settings. So before I go to shoot longer ranges I know my come-ups to reach the target at 100 - 200 - 300. I don't calculate it at the range. My come-ups are printed out on a paper to match each different bullet weight and caliber.
    OK, that makes some sense to me and answers the question on how people make the range cards. I am assuming by the term come-ups you are referring to how many clicks of elevation are required at each distance in order to put you in the ballpark of the target. That being said, now that you have a general idea, how do you use the mildot to hit the target a say 375 or 350? One of my problems as well is I am a visual learner, I need to have someone physically show it to me and see it in practice for it to really make sense. I will have to make some leads then see if I can find a chronograph in order to start playing with the program....do you have anything you recommend as a starting point?

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrr View Post
    I can't find that scope?? 6-12X24
    The scope is here
    http://www.tasco.com/products/index....&ProductID=665
    As I said, I never intended for it to be "the one" and always knew I would have to replace it soon after. My thought process was spend more on the gun right out of the gate then focus on optice later as I started to get better. I figured it is easier and cheaper to upgrade the scope than the gun.

  4. #24
    EM Precision Rifles stevesummit's Avatar
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    The glass you put on will make or break your ability to shoot to distance . You need a scope that tracks the same from shot to shot , and the most important in my mind is good enough clarity that your eye won't fatigue after thirty rounds . Once your eye is worn out your shooting will go down hill fast

  5. #25
    The Esquire of Dusk Katana's Avatar
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    If a 300WM is involved, it would be a very big load there big boy

    Actually I just recently got a Remington 700 LTR in 308 so that's going to be first step to long range. Also going to be my deer gun this weekend

    Quote Originally Posted by Satain View Post
    Coming from you I don't know how to read this!?!
    LoL!!!
    300 Win Mag any one?

  6. #26
    Senior Member CanuckWR's Avatar
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    You can upgrade individual parts of the rifle with ease. You can only buy the scope as a whole.

    Buy the most optic you can get and get a cheap rifle. The savage rifles can be upgraded VERY easily into anything you want, although a Rem 700 will have more options down the road for stocks and tacticool goodies.

    Learning how to use your reticle will be easy if you buy a quality scope. A nightforce NPR-2 reticle is amazingly intuitive once you start shooting with it. If you are worried look for a first focal plane reticle, they make life very easy.
    I <3 10mm auto

  7. #27
    One Mile Mentor tigrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizz View Post
    No, I am as of right now I am only shooting factory loads. That being said, I have never measured my groupings but I would hazard a guess and say I am in the 1/2 inch range with a 5 shot group.
    To get the most accurate shooting you need to reload!


    Yes although I have only done handgun loads so far and I have a Dillon 550 progressive press
    Buy a single stage for rifle reloading.


    Again, I am literally just starting however, I feel comfortable at any one of those three positions. At the indoor range, I primarily use bags as that is what is on hand.


    Would like to eventually become proficient at both.



    OK, that makes some sense to me and answers the question on how people make the range cards. I am assuming by the term come-ups you are referring to how many clicks of elevation are required at each distance in order to put you in the ballpark of the target. That being said, now that you have a general idea, how do you use the mildot to hit the target a say 375 or 350? One of my problems as well is I am a visual learner, I need to have someone physically show it to me and see it in practice for it to really make sense. I will have to make some leads then see if I can find a chronograph in order to start playing with the program....do you have anything you recommend as a starting point?
    Without the speed of the bullet its not possible to calculate any elevation settings. Some manufacturers have the speed of their cartridge on their website.
    What bullet weight?
    What factory ammo?
    My ballistic program can be set to give scope elevation settings for 25 yard intervals. So you could have a range card with the settings printed on it for any distance. When you talk about calculating in the field at different ranges, it is generally scope specific. Meaning the distance between mildots is preset. You could tape a ruler on a target at 100 yards and see what the distance is between the dots is at 100 yards. Ranging with a mildot scope is challenging. It is best done with know items at the range your shooting. For instance a coyote is standing in front of a fence. The height of a typical fence post is 4 feet high. The fence post is 1/2 as high as the distance between two mildots. Then you multiply that times the scope specific formula and it tells you how far away that yote is. I'll look for the formula that applies to that scope!!
    The interesting thing with mildots is they can be caliber orientated. Zero'd center dot 100 yard target, next dot down 200, next 300 and so on. The biggest thing in the long range shooting discipline is practice. Once I know what bullet/brass/powder combination works best. I buy my bullets in packs of 1000 to get the same lot number. Brass in a case of 1000. Powder from higginsons at 21lbs at a time. This set-up will get you started. At a later date when you want to reach out further then you upgrade. Keep if fun.




    The scope is here
    http://www.tasco.com/products/index....&ProductID=665
    As I said, I never intended for it to be "the one" and always knew I would have to replace it soon after. My thought process was spend more on the gun right out of the gate then focus on optice later as I started to get better. I figured it is easier and cheaper to upgrade the scope than the gun.
    I know now why I couldn't find that scope, check your first description of said scope(post #10)!! I gave up after searching for an hour. Learned a lot about Tasco scopes though.
    The challenge of retirement is how to spend time without spending money.
    There is no place in an anti's head where reason can enter. from a Napoleon saying with a tweak.
    Look around is there someone you can introduce to shooting because thatís the only way we will buck the anti gun trend sweeping Canada! "tigrr 2006"

  8. #28
    Canadian ForcesMember Grizz's Avatar
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    Sorry about the description...I was on the tail end of a 48 hour shift and was a little tired, I feel really bad you looked for an hour!! You said you learned a lot about Tasco scopes...out of curiosity what is your general opinion on my (Tasco) scope now?

    As for shooting factory, I have been using them simply because I did not have the time to get out and shoot since my son was born nor did I have the time to reload. It was far faster to just buy a box and get to the range to maximize my time. Also, I figured that with the distance of the indoor range, what was the point. That being said, he will be 3 in January so I am now getting to the point I can dedicate more time and come to some outdoor events.

    As far as practicing, I know I just need to get out of the indoor range and play at longer distances as that distance is REALLY no longer remotely challenging. Unfortunately, as far as I know, the closest range with any type of distance (100 yards) would be at least a 45 min drive so I will have to look around for a closer alternative.

    As for the scope, what reticle what would you recommend to make things easier? I just always assumed that mildot was a great reticle for long distance but again I don't have the experience. Also, what do you think about the new BORS system? I assume you are not able to use it in competition either?

    Sent from my iPhone 5
    Last edited by Grizz; 10-01-2012 at 04:10 AM.

  9. #29
    EM Precision Rifles stevesummit's Avatar
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    I would go for a tmr style with hash lines . They offer a finer aiming point along with half marks so ranging and aim offs are easier

  10. #30
    Senior Member Dmay's Avatar
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    It may be worthwhile to go to the Nightforce website and look at their reticcles, especially NPR1 & NPR2. Look at how they work, will give you an idea of their use as Steve mentions above.

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