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  1. #1
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    Casting buck and others ?

    So about 5 years ago I cleaned our pistol range of lead, ended up with 550 lbs of ingots. Bought a lee pro 20 and some molds, but never got around to trying. Today being a shitty day on the west coast, wife working, figured good time to try. I have a lee 18 cavity 00 buck, and a #4, I think 24 cavity. For my first try at this, I was quite happy with results, but was wondering after snipping them all, do you worry about the little bit of connecting lead sticking out, or is that pretty well gone by the time it gets to end of a barrel?
    Also did some lee 1 oz key drive slugs, and some Lyman 525 gr sabot, very happy with those results too.this was just a testing day, amazed at how fast pot melted, actually I was amazed at how easy and quick I could pump them out, especially the lyman that I thought looked like a nightmare to use, was very quick. I have 9mm, 45, and 38 too, but waiting for handles.

  2. #2
    The Gunsmithing Moderator blacksmithden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greglc View Post
    So about 5 years ago I cleaned our pistol range of lead, ended up with 550 lbs of ingots. Bought a lee pro 20 and some molds, but never got around to trying. Today being a shitty day on the west coast, wife working, figured good time to try. I have a lee 18 cavity 00 buck, and a #4, I think 24 cavity. For my first try at this, I was quite happy with results, but was wondering after snipping them all, do you worry about the little bit of connecting lead sticking out, or is that pretty well gone by the time it gets to end of a barrel?
    Also did some lee 1 oz key drive slugs, and some Lyman 525 gr sabot, very happy with those results too.this was just a testing day, amazed at how fast pot melted, actually I was amazed at how easy and quick I could pump them out, especially the lyman that I thought looked like a nightmare to use, was very quick. I have 9mm, 45, and 38 too, but waiting for handles.
    Don't worry about the little tits that are left on the buckshot. I made a few shells worth with them taken completely off and some with them left on there. Zero difference in performance. I found the Lee key drive slugs using Winchester white wads tumbled horribly and weren't accurate at all. The Lyman 525 giant airgun pellet was very accurate. As far as bullet casting in general....welcome to the dark side. Get yourself a bunch of powder, primers, brass, and shells. Then, the ammo store is NEVER closed. With the exception of my 300 win mag stuff, pretty much everything I shoot now is cast and my "cost per pew" is locked in at about a 2018 level for a good long time to come. Check the hardness of your lead before running too much of it down a rifled barrel. I've never tested range lead because I've collected very little of it. I've read in the past that bullet manufacturers sometimes use pure lead under the copper jacket because it doesn't need to be that hard. The copper engages the rifling. In cast stuff, the lead has to do all the work and running pure lead down a rifled barrel will result in a lot of leading. If you start making rifle bullets, such as 308 stuff for your 30-30, suck it up and buy the gas checks. Shooting bullets that require a gas check without one will (learn from my pain) result in you getting really friendly with a cleaning rod, bore brush, and a bottle of lead-out. 4 hours or so of your life will disappear before you get to see proper rifling again. LOL. Whatever you're shooting...if the guy at the bench next to you says he can see a grey vapor trail in the air between you and the target, for GOD'S SAKE STOP !!! Again...you're heading for a long date with a bore brush and lead-out. Feel free to use whatever-lead for shotgun stuff. Don't shoot cast loads through rifling at much more than 2000 fps..again..bore brush and lead out time.
    Last edited by blacksmithden; 06-06-2021 at 02:58 PM.
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  3. The Following User Liked This Post By blacksmithden

    Stew (06-06-2021)

  4. #3
    Senior Member M1917 Enfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksmithden View Post
    Don't worry about the little tits that are left on the buckshot. I made a few shells worth with them taken completely off and some with them left on there. Zero difference in performance. I found the Lee key drive slugs using Winchester white wads tumbled horribly and weren't accurate at all. The Lyman 525 giant airgun pellet was very accurate. As far as bullet casting in general....welcome to the dark side. Get yourself a bunch of powder, primers, brass, and shells. Then, the ammo store is NEVER closed. With the exception of my 300 win mag stuff, pretty much everything I shoot now is cast and my "cost per pew" is locked in at about a 2018 level for a good long time to come. Check the hardness of your lead before running too much of it down a rifled barrel. I've never tested range lead because I've collected very little of it. I've read in the past that bullet manufacturers sometimes use pure lead under the copper jacket because it doesn't need to be that hard. The copper engages the rifling. In cast stuff, the lead has to do all the work and running pure lead down a rifled barrel will result in a lot of leading. If you start making rifle bullets, such as 308 stuff for your 30-30, suck it up and buy the gas checks. Shooting bullets that require a gas check without one will (learn from my pain) result in you getting really friendly with a cleaning rod, bore brush, and a bottle of lead-out. 4 hours or so of your life will disappear before you get to see proper rifling again. LOL. Whatever you're shooting...if the guy at the bench next to you says he can see a grey vapor trail in the air between you and the target, for GOD'S SAKE STOP !!! Again...you're heading for a long date with a bore brush and lead-out. Feel free to use whatever-lead for shotgun stuff. Don't shoot cast loads through rifling at much more than 2000 fps..again..bore brush and lead out time.
    Good advice! but I found that pieces of 100% brass or copper pan scouring pads wrapped around a wire brush make for the best and quickest barrel lead removal methods for those that get leading from using undersized or too fast lead bullets in their firearms.

    What took hours of cleaning the old way before can now be done in minutes with pieces of copper mesh wrapped around your wire brush and then run through your bore with soapy warm water or bore solvent will quickly and safely remove all bore lead buildup.

    Amazon has the best prices and beware the cheap dollar store imitation copper plated/coated steel wool that will scratch or wear your bore.







    Stay away from this copper coated/plated steel wool pads -




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  5. #4
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    Thanks, won't worry about shot bits then. I'm not new to reloading, just casting my own. And like blacksmithdan, I have enough powder and primers to load for life, pistol powders I could do a few lifetimes, like him I bought in 2018, 35 a pound, $225.00 an 8 pounder. I saw an 8 pounder for $460.00 the other day, got excited yesterday when I saw a jug for $210.00, then realized it was only 4 pounds.
    I bought a lead hardness tester when I cast the ingots, if I remember right it was 16 bh, will have to get it out again, daughters boyfriend dropped off a 100 lb canada stamped ingot last month, will check it, but assuming pure lead.
    And yes I'll break down and get gas checks if I decide to do any riffle. And I buy rolls of copper mesh from lee valley for different slugs, the garden type.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by M1917 Enfield View Post
    Good advice! but I found that pieces of 100% brass or copper pan scouring pads wrapped around a wire brush make for the best and quickest barrel lead removal methods for those that get leading from using undersized or too fast lead bullets in their firearms.

    What took hours of cleaning the old way before can now be done in minutes with pieces of copper mesh wrapped around your wire brush and then run through your bore with soapy warm water or bore solvent will quickly and safely remove all bore lead buildup.

    Amazon has the best prices and beware the cheap dollar store imitation copper plated/coated steel wool that will scratch or wear your bore.

    Stay away from this copper coated/plated steel wool pads -
    I have been using this method for about 4 years and I haven't found another method that is more effective at removing lead deposits from my revolvers. I remember that trying to find those brass or copper pads was difficult in the stores but I think I found the brass pads at Superstore. Still using the original two pads that I bought because you do not need to pull much fibers off to wrap on the brass brush.

  7. The Following User Liked This Post By YQR Reloader

    M1917 Enfield (06-08-2021)

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