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  1. #31
    Always against the grain Booletsnotreactwell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wendell View Post
    AR500 pistol-rated swinger
    I've never heard of "pistol rated AR500", it would be sort of like saying "pistol rated NIJ level 4 armor plates". The number refers to the rating on the Brinell scale so it's either 500 or it's not. There's a little more that goes into what makes a steel target able to stand up to rifle hits but really it starts with having a high quality steel that's finished by a target manufacture that knows what they're doing. Maybe manufacturers sell their scraps and shit products under the banner of "pistol rated AR500", which is somewhat deceptive, either way whoever sold you "pistol rated AR500" sold you bullshit.

    True quality AR500 from a good manufacturer should take steel core/bi-metal jacket/core and anything but dedicated armor piercing rounds all day as has been my experience and the experience of many others. While were at this, a good manufacturer of steel targets cuts the targets by water jet, if it's cut by a torch the edges become sub par and susceptible to things normal AR500 doesn't get hurt by.



    There seems to be a lot of misguided blame on SKS's and surplus low velocity bi-metal rounds. So much so that some fud ranges ban them yet some fud cartridges like copper solid 22-250 rounds will punch right through AR500 plate body armor.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Booletsnotreactwell View Post
    ...Maybe manufacturers sell their scraps and shit products under the banner of "pistol rated AR500", which is somewhat deceptive, either way whoever sold you "pistol rated AR500" sold you bullshit...
    Maybe some pistols have less energy than some rifles. Maybe a 'rifle-rated' plate wouldn't swing in reaction to a hit from some pistols. Maybe some target shooters like their steel to swing in reaction to a hit. Maybe not all AR500 plate comes in the same thickness. Maybe some manufacturers actually label their product both 'AR500' and 'centerfire pistol only'.

    Late entry:

    You are correct, the label said it was safe to engage them with rifle fire from 100 yards or greater. They were rated for centerfire pistol (from any distance).

    The yahoos who did this left their (steel 7.62 x 39mm) cases behind at the 10m range.
    Last edited by Wendell; 06-30-2017 at 06:06 PM.
    Retired Maryland State Police Captain Jack McCauley speaking in the Maryland Senate for CCW reform:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdUaPDiW-GY

  3. #33

  4. #34
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    Pistol rated AR500 targets are basically thinner. 1/4" rather than 3/8" or 1/2". A properly made 1/4" pistol swinging target will soak up thousands and thousands of pistol hits at 10m with very little damage. A .223 at 100m will dent a 1/4" target and have a bit of a protrusion on the off side. At close range they can get shot to hell with a rifle.

    Even a 3/8" target will get shot to heck by fast moving rifles at 20 yards. At 50 yards a 3/8" swinging target will soak up plenty of 7.62x39 or .223, but a 300 Magnum will start to beat them up a fair bit. Stationary (rather than swinging) targets get beat up more. A 1/2" AR500 target will last a very long time at 100m no matter what you throw at it, short of a 50BMG or 338 Lapua.

    A .223 is more damaging than bimetal 7.62x39, becuase the .223 is 1000fps faster.

    No matter what you shoot steel with, make sure you wear eye protection. The shrapnel goes everywhere, and when it hits you in the face it doesn't bother you too much but getting it in the eye is a while different matter.

  5. #35
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    I know old post is old, but I recently purchased a Chinese Type 56 and experienced my first slam fire.

    The slam fire happened when releasing the bolt. I had loaded a single round into the chamber with no magazine in place. The round went off, ejected as normal, and the primer had a pin mark on it even though I hadn't touched the trigger (which was actually on safe). I slowly slid the bolt assembly forward and watched to make sure the firing pin did not push forward in any way. Everything looked normal.

    I removed the trigger assembly, loaded a round, and released the bolt. Nothing happened. At this point I figured it had to be something in the trigger group.

    When the rifle first arrived, I tore it down to "nuts and bolts" to clean everything after finding all kinds of lovely grit under the sear on my Tula. The entire trigger assembly and the firing pin/bolt were spotless before reassembly, so I am 100% sure it didn't happen as a result of cosmoline. At the time, I was shooting Hornady SSTs, which had no issue in my Russian rifle.

    Just a little bit ago, I pulled the trigger group apart to look at the engagement surfaces on the hammer and sear. It appears as though the surface on top of the sear is worn resulting in negative engagement. The Yooper website is a lifesaver when it comes to troubleshooting. Not sure if I can clean up the surface or if I have to buy a new sear, but this goes to show it's not always dirt or bad ammo.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #36
    www.hical.ca/
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    Well, we stock all the USA made Murray SKS parts from the spring loaded firing pin to sears & springs. Some pins had breakage problems due to poor hardening a few years ago, but they have no problems now & are guaranteed....Have a look, HERE.
    For all your shooting needs, at one place! www.hical.ca
    PAL, RPAL & CORE classes. palcore.ca
    Visit our store, 33154 1st ave, Mission, BC. Map
    Email: [email protected]
    Phone: 604-BUY-GUNS (604-289 4867)

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    Billythreefeathers (10-02-2018)

  8. #37
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    The pic isn't the clearest, but you can see there is a second "step" that angles back towards the hammer. I removed the hammer spring and reassembled the trigger group to check the contact between the hammer and the sear. It didn't take much to make the hammer drop. I haven't tried testing it with the trigger group installed in the rifle, but I can guess what the result will be.

    Even if I restore the angle, I'm not sure the hammer will stay cocked since filing would remove material creating more of a gap between the hammer and sear. Plus it may impact the hardened surface on the sear (if any remains). I did find pics on Survivor's SKS Boards that look similar to my predicament where the positive engagement was reestablished.

    I should probably mention that my intent is to make the rifle safe and reliable. I've seen the videos on trigger jobs; I only want to restore original operation.

    IMG_20180916_185537771.jpg
    Last edited by RedZedX3; 09-16-2018 at 08:54 PM.

  9. #38
    www.hical.ca/
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    Check the Murray sears, they will correct your problem.
    For all your shooting needs, at one place! www.hical.ca
    PAL, RPAL & CORE classes. palcore.ca
    Visit our store, 33154 1st ave, Mission, BC. Map
    Email: [email protected]
    Phone: 604-BUY-GUNS (604-289 4867)

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hical.ca View Post
    Check the Murray sears, they will correct your problem.
    This is likely the way I'll have to go. I can get a full trigger group for $45, but it is still surplus so it may not be in better condition. Have to wait until the OT fairies show up on my next paycheck.

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